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General information about Tibet:
Tibet, the ‘Land of Snows’, the ‘Roof of the World’ has one of the richest cultural and spiritual traditions in the world. Here men and gods inhabit the same landscape, both physical and mental.
Culturally Tibet comprises an enormous area stretching north into the provinces of Qinghai and Gansu and east into Sichuan and Yunnan as well as across the Himalaya into Ladakh, northern Nepal, Sikkim and Bhutan. Politically it has never been unified; its peoples often in conflict as power, politics and religion are inextricably intertwined.
Tibet’s history has always been closely linked with the gods who live so close, and in Tibet’s vast and hostile landscape it is easy to conceive the many demons from whom shaman’s offered protection. Some of these demons were real, in the form of bandits and invading Mongol hordes, others reflect the deep spiritual focus of the Tibetan people. With the coming of Buddhism the demons were tamed, converted and turned into protectors – an integral part of the unique way in which Buddhism has developed in Tibet.
Virtually every aspect of Tibetan life celebrates the teachings of the Buddha, his disciples and followers. Pilgrimage is an integral part of life. Journeys are marked by offerings made atop mountain passes. Incredible, painstakingly created works of art depict deities in minute detail. Monasteries and temples are the focal point of towns and villages.
capital city: Lhasa (population 403,700).
area: 1,228,400 sq km.
population: 2.62 million.
language: Tibetan, Chinese.
currency: Yuan Renminbi (CNY).
time zone: GMT +8.
dialing code: +86.
Air China operates between Lhasa and Kathmandu on Sunday, Tuesday, Thrusday & Saturday.
The land border at Kodari-ZhangMu is open.
To Kathmandu: Thai flies daily between Kathmandu and Bangkok with connections throughout the world.
From Europe there are daily flights via the Middle East on Emirates, Gulf Air and Qatar Airways as well as connections via Delhi on Lufthansa and KLM.
There are daily flights from Delhi on Indian Airways and RNAC.
RNAC has twice weekly flights to Osaka via Shanghai and to Hong Kong.
China Eastern Airways is due to begin operating between Beijing and Shanghai and Kathmandu early 2004.
It is only possible to enter China from Nepal with a visa issued by the Chinese Embassy in Kathmandu. In order to apply for your visa you must provide RMT with a photocopy of the details page of your passport 21 days prior to your trip. The visa will be issued once you arrive in Kathmandu – it takes one full day. The Chinese Embassy in Kathmandu issues visas on Monday, Wednesday and Friday only so you must plan your itinerary to allow for this. The visa cost is USD 114 per person, for US nationality USD 198 per person.
Travel Permits are required for Tibet. RMT will apply for your permit on your behalf.
In China the currency is the Chinese Yuan (CNY), often referred to as Renminbi (RMB) or kwai when spoken.
It is best to bring a mixture of cash and travelers checks in major currencies - USD, CAD, EUR, AUD - and ensure you have a mixture of large and small denominations.
Shopping is difficult to predict, but most people buy more than they intended. If you intend to buy quality art works including hand-painted thangkas, carpets or traditional jewelry allow significantly more – you can easily spend USD200+ for top quality items.
Major currencies can be exchanged for Chinese Yuan (CNY) on arrival at Gongkar Airport and at Bank of China branches in Lhasa and Shigatse.
ATM withdrawals (CNY only) are usually possible in Lhasa, but should not be depended upon.
It is possible to exchange USD and excess CNY into NPR at the Zhangmu/Kodari border and at exchange counters on return to Kathmandu.
Tibet is a land of climactic extremes and whilst it is not generally as harsh as expected, it is a good idea to be prepared for cold at any time of the year – it is wind chill rather than air temperature that makes the difference here.
In central Tibet weather is usually mild from May through October. Evenings may be cool, particularly early or late in the season. Rain is frequent in July and August.
In Western Tibet and at higher altitudes (Rhongphu, Namtso) it can be cold at any time of year if the wind is blowing off the mountains.
Religion:
- Tibetan Buddhism is divided into schools which have different philosophical emphasis rather than fundamental differences
- Virtually all temples and monasteries are aligned with a specific school although visible differences are few
Buddhism is one of the most tolerant of religions – everywhere it went it adapted to local conditions, yet the basic tenets have remained the same and all schools are bound together in their faith in the value of the teachings of Shakyamuni. The Buddha is the archetype of the enlightened consciousness who, by attaining his own awakening as the historical Buddha Shakyamuni, proved that enlightenment bodhi was possible for all sentient beings. In brief, Buddhism teaches that all life is essentially suffering, an endless cycle of birth, death and rebirth that can only be broken by attaining Nirvana. This can only be achieved by loosing desire for all things of the world. Nirvana means cessation or to extinguish – liberation from the cycle of rebirth and should not be equated with a western ‘heaven’ concept. An essential concept is the interconnectedness of all things; the Buddha concept of the universe is often depicted as a net of jewels: each jewel endlessly reflecting the totality of reality.
The Hinayana or Theravada (Thailand, Lao, Cambodia, Burma, Sri Lanka) originated in Sri Lanka. The earliest available teachings of the Buddha are to be found in Pali literature and belong to the school of the Theravadins, who may be called the most orthodox school of Buddhism. This school admits the human characteristics of the Buddha, and is characterized by a psychological understanding of human nature; and emphasizes a meditative approach to the transformation of consciousness. The teaching of the Buddha according to this school is very plain. He asks us to ‘abstain from all kinds of evil, to accumulate all that is good and to purify our mind’. These can be accomplished by The Three Trainings: the development of ethical conduct, meditation and insight-wisdom.
The Mahayana (Nepal, China, Tibet, Mongolia, Bhutan, Vietnam, Korea, Taiwan, Japan) elevates compassion to an all important ideal and teaches that perfection for the individual is not possible without perfection for all, and that many of those who have already attained enlightenment would remain in the world as bodhisattvas to help others. Over time bodhisattvas came to be ascribed miraculous powers and were worshipped in a manner very similar to traditional ancestor worship.
Tibetans first came into contact with Buddhism when they occupied the oasis cities of Central Asia. In the 8th century, the first of many missionary monks (Padmasambhava/Guru Rinpoche) arrived and the country's first monastery was established in 787. However, despite some early success Buddhism soon went into decline due to opposition from Bon, the indigenous religion, and political turmoil. In the 10th century monks from India and Tibetans going to India re-introduced the religion together with many aspects of Indian civilization and it soon began to flourish. As Tantra was the main type of Buddhism in India at the time, it was that which became established in Tibet.
From the 7th century a new tradition of Buddhism began to develop that was in several important respects radically different from the earlier traditions. This new tradition incorporated Tantric elements and is known as Vajrayana (diamond or thunderbolt vehicle). Tantrayana is characterized by an emphasis on the value of magic and the propitiation of the bodhisattvas and gods in the quest for Nirvana. It is an esoteric and ritualistic doctrine that incorporates the use of rituals, sacred gestures, symbols, mantras and visualization to achieve realization.
Refuge in the ‘Three Precious Jewels’ - the Buddha (Shakyamuni), Dharma (his teaching) and Sangha (the monastic community)
‘Bodhicitta’ – the fervent wish for the salvation of all living things and the desire to free them from their worldly suffering.
‘Altruism’ – a dedication to bring happiness to others.
Festivals Of Tibet
There are numerous festivals in Tibet; in the Tibetan lunar calendar, they appear almost every month. There are more than 100 major festivals throughout the year involving different activities, including offering sacrifice to gods or ancestors, farming, commemorations, celebrations and social contract. Tibetan festivals can be grouped into traditional and religious ones, but there is some blurring of the lines.
Among these festivals, the Tibetan New year, Bathing festival, Shoton (Yogurt) festival and Ongkor(Bumper Harvest) Festival are the largest and most distinctive ones. While all national festivals are celebrated in Tibet, the local authorities of the Tibet Autonomous Region also listed the Tibetan new year, Shoton Festival and other traditional Tibetan festival among the festivals and holidays of the region. This decision provides legal guarantee for the Tibetans to enjoy the various traditional festivals.
Of the traditional festivals, the Tibetan new year is the most important. The festival begins on the first day of the first Tibetan month. But preparation for the celebration starts from the beginning of the 12th Tibetan months in the Tibetan New Year’s Eve. On the first day of the first Tibetan month, people of the younger generation congratulate people of the older generation by saying “Tashideleg” (good luck and auspicious). This is followed by breakfast, during which they offer toasts with qingke barley wine. On this day, the street is almost deserted as all stay at home for the celebration or performing religious service. On the second day, they visit friends and relatives. Folk artists perform Tibetan opera and “drekar” (storytelling and singing) here and there. Such activities last three to five days before the Tibetans turn to Buddhist rituals held to make the deities happy. In Lhasa, the Grand Summons Ceremony is held. In Qamdo in eastern Tibet and the Changtang Grasslands in northern Tibet, people begin to take ritual walks around holy mountains and give alms to monks to seek a bumper harvest and good luck.
The Grand Summons Ceremony is the climax of the New year celebrations. This festival begins on the third day of the first Tibetan month and ends on the 24th day, lasting a total of 21 days. During this period, tens of thousands of monks pour into Lhasa, forming an ocean of kasaya vestments. The chanting and debating of sutras from the main part of the festival.
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During the Shoton festival in the Norbulingka, people go to the parks to sing and dance and watch operas. The Tibetan opera performances bring each year’s Sholton festival to a climax. Apart from traditional plays such as “Prince Norsang, Nangsa Obar, Brother’s Donyo, Dondrub, Princess Wencheng and dreamed Kunden”, there are also wonderful programmes with a variety of local characteristics.
A giant image of Buddha is displayed during the Shoton festival in the premises of Drepung Monastery, so the festival is also called the festival of displaying the Buddha image. On the evening of 29th day of the 6 th Tibetan month, people rush into the Monastery to wait for the activities to begin. Early in the morning of 30th day, accomplished by the solemn sound of bugles and the burning of incense, monks carry a huge brocade picture of Buddha to the top of the hill, from where they display the picture.
Pilgrims clustering around on either side pay homage and present katag to the Buddha image. When the huge picture of Buddha is gradually unfolded, thousands of the pilgrims prostate themselves in the worship before the picture of Buddha, undulating like great waves. The sound of prayers echoes in the Mountain, the magnificent Buddha image is bathed in the golden sunshine.
During the one-week bathing festival, men and women, old and young, all in Lhasa and Xigase areas to the bath, swim and wash bedding in the Lhasa river and the Yarlung Zanbo river. Besides, they conduct all kind of recreational activities at the river side, holding get together, drinking tea and liquor, and singing and dancing.
The ceremony is presided over a sorcerer, who meditates between human and the god. On the first day, laid by the sorcerer, people sing and dance to entertain and please the god. On the second day the inhabitants of each hamlet set off in the procession and make a circuit of all their fields, singing while walking. The procession is laid by sorcerer, who holds a colorful arrow, folded by monks with sutras in their hands and the band. At the end of the ceremony, people entertain themselves with singing and dancing and traditional contests.
The Horse-Racing Festival is the grand traditional festival held in the Northern Tibet’s Nanchu grassland for between five and fifteen days during the 6th Tibetan month, when the weather is at it’s best in Northern Tibet. People in the festival costumes rush to attain the race days before the festival. Tents are setup one after another. Everybody can take part in the race.
Today, the festival is not only a horse race. Instead, it comprises a comprehensive range of sporting activities in addition to horse races, mountain archery contest and the feats of horsemanship, there are also theatrical performances, movies, and the recitation and singing of the ballad Gesar by folk performers as well as large commodity fears for nomads. The Horse-Racing festival has now become a well known tourist attraction in Tibet.
Culture
- What is commonly referred to today as Tibet is the Chinese designated 'Tibet Autonomous Region' (TAR).
- This region represents only a portion of historic Tibet which incorporated the entire expanse of the Tibetan plateau.
- To gain a true appreciation of the country an understanding of its political past and present is necessary. We recommend that all our travellers try to gain an insight into the country's political history before arriving in Tibet.
- Avoid demonstrating obvious pro-Tibetan political sympathies as it could land you in trouble.
- Tibetans are very curious and may stare at you or want to look at your guidebooks. Be polite and patient and you may find the experience rewarding.
- Tibet observes the Buddhist tradition of begging for alms. You will probably find yourself approached many times but they are rarely pushy and do not target foreigners any more than locals.
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Tibetans
Like almost all ethnic groups in China Tibetans belong to the Mongoloid group of peoples. They are probably descended from a variety of nomadic tribes who migrated from the north and settled into sedentary cultivation of Tibet’s river valleys. Within the Tibetan population there are a number of distinct groups.
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Drokpa
The nomads who comprise approximately one quarter of Tibet’s population.
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Khampa
The most visually distinct of Tibet’s peoples, the Khampa of eastern Tibet wear red or black tassels in their long hair and are usually a heavier build than other Tibetans.
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Golok
The Golok are an independently minded nomadic people who have maintained their distinctive cultural traditions for centuries. Their homeland is the Golok Tibetan Autonomous Region of Qinghai Province centered on the holy mountain Amnye Machen.
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Hui
Tibet’s original Muslims were largely traders (or butchers). Most recent immigrants are traders and restaurant owners from Gansu.
Travel information:
- Our accommodation in Lhasa is located near the central Barkhor Square, in what remains of the Tibetan Old City.
- Rooms are on a twin share basis with hot showers and western toilets however bathrooms may be shared.
- Outside Lhasa our accommodation is usually in small and very simple guesthouses that vary considerably in quality.
- On some trips you should be prepared for some very basic conditions.
- In remote regions rooms will be multishare with no washing facilities apart from a thermos of water and a bowl, and pit or "long drop" toilets that are used by everybody (and consequently not places to hang around in longer than necessary!).
- In more remote areas there may be no/erratic electric.
Private Transport:
- We use both 4 wheel drive Toyota Landcruisers and minibuses when travelling in Tibet.
- They are sturdy vehicles and well suited to the rough terrain and punishing roads that will be experienced during the entire trip.
- They are not infallible though, and the terrain does take a considerable toll. Breakdowns and disruptions to our travels are common, and are usually dealt with in true "bush mechanic' style by our local Tibetan drivers.
Meals:
- The food in Tibet is best described as basic, but there are a surprising amount of western and Nepalese choices available, especially in Lhasa.
- There are any number of restaurants catering to western tastes in Lhasa, but usually with a fair mix of local, Chinese and Indian flavours.
- Out of Lhasa the food becomes more basic the more remote the region, though you can usually get some momos (dumplings), noodle soup or the ever present egg fried rice. In many places that is all you can get!
- Tipping is not expected in Tibet
Must Try:
- Tsampa (barley flour mixed with yak butter).
- Yak butter tea .
Drinks:
- An alternative to yak butter tea is cha ngamo, a sweet, milky tea.
- Chinese green tea is also widely available.
- Chang, a fermented barley beer is the local alcoholic brew. It is generally OK to drink however can be made with contaminated water.
- Lhasa Beer is the homegrown beer.
- Expect to pay around CNY50 for a restaurant meal.
Water:
- In the high altitude of Tibet it is important to drink a much higher quantity of water than you are used to. Always carry drinking water with you and have some nearby at nights, as it is amazing how quickly you can dehydrate, even at rest.
- Tap water is not safe to drink however there may be a thermos provided in the rooms. Boiled water is OK for drinking.
- Bottled drinking water is available everywhere however we recommend taking water purification tablets or a bottle with an in-built filter as these are more environmentally-friendly options than bottled water.
Email:
- Private internet bars can be found in main cities
- Alternatively you can use business centres in China Telecom offices.
- Some websites have been blacklisted by the Chinese government and cannot be accessed from within China.
Telephone:
- Be careful making international calls from hotels as they can be very expensive.
- Private telecom booths are cheaper and easy to use.
- To make international calls you will need a phone card bought from inside Tibet.
- All cities and even most small towns have mobile phone reception if your phone is enabled with international roaming.
Post:
- Receiving post is not recommended as we are usually doing something or travelling during the opening hours of most post offices.
- Allow up to 10 days for mail to arrive at international destinations.
- Writing the address in Chinese can help speed delivery .
- Toilets are generally drop or squat toilets.
- Some hotels may have western-style toilets.
- Carry toilet paper or tissues with you as they are rarely provided.
- It is advisable for women to dress modestly, as the Tibetans do, although the climate generally makes this necessary anyway.
What to buy?
- The most common items you will find are religious items such as prayer flags, prayer wheels, thangkas, shawls and daggers.
- Traditional clothing and jewellery are also available.
- Sometimes you will be able to find beautiful carpets available .
- Expect to bargain. Being polite while doing so will get you a better deal.
- Check with your local customs officials to ensure that you are able to import some items back into your home country. Australia and New Zealand for example have strict quarantine laws.
Trek/ Trip Grades
Experience is not necessary at this level: anyone who is in good health and fit enough to enjoy a good weekend hill walk can manage this trek. However, walking always involves some exertion: trails are seldom flat, and you must still expect to have a reasonable amount of ascent and descent.
Days are generally short in duration (3-5 hours) .
Altitude is less than 3000m.
Most people who enjoy a weekend in the hills or mountains at home are capable of undertaking a trek at this level: you need to be in good health and reasonably fit, and taking regular exercise.
Days generally involve 4-6 hours walking – it may include the occasional longer or more difficult day.
Altitude is around 3000m.
Trip Grading.
Easy – relaxed sightseeing with private transport to sights.
– Whilst no strenuous activity is involved conditions will be harsher than you are used to. Accommodations on some days will be extremely basic with shared ‘pit’ variety toilets and no washing facilities. Food will be sometimes be basic, with little variety available. Driving days can be long, dusty and bumpy and you may feel some effects of altitude.
– All the aspects of a moderate trip, but sustained over a longer period of time. The koras (circumambulation) of Mount Kailash and/or Lake Manasarovar are challenging due to the altitude, but generally achievable by anyone in good health.
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