|
General Information about Bhutan
The beauty of the pastoral landscape can seem unreal to travelers from the industrialized world: houses with brightly decorated window frames and shingled roofs, patchworks of green paddy fields, plots of tawny buckwheat, oak forests, a covered bridge bedecked in colorful prayer flags, fences of intricately woven bamboo, a man leaning on a wooden rail trampling his harvest, a women weaving in the open air, a baby laced into a horse’s saddlebag, yaks browsing in a grove of giant rhododendrons.
Such scenes remain in the memory forever. But it is the symbols of Bhutan’s religion which leaves the deepest impression: the chortens (commemorative monuments) dot the landscape, fluttering prayer flags, prayer wheels turned by the water of swift mountain streams and the awesome monasteries. Buddhism is everywhere, determining attitudes, molding thoughts.
Impenetrable jungles to the south, and daunting ranges of snow-capped mountains to the north have always barred access to the remote valleys of the kingdom. In spite of many incursions by both Tibeto-Mongol troops and the armies of the British Empire stationed in India, the country has not been colonized since the 8th century. Bhutan has therefore kept alive its extremely rich heritage, doggedly maintaining its distance from the modern world, proud of its own values and traditions.
Capital city: Thimpu (population 30,000)
Area: 47,000 sq km
Population: 682,000
Language: Dzongkha
Currency: Ngultrum (BTN)
Time zone: GMT +6
Dialing code: +975
The southern part of Bhutan is tropical, and in general, the east of Bhutan is warmer than the west of the country. The central valley of Punakha, Wangdiphodrang, Mongar, Tashigang and Lhuntshi enjoy a semi tropical climate with very cool winters, while Thimphu, Tongsa and Bumthang have a much harsher climate, with heavy monsoon rains in the summer and heavy snow fall in winter. Winter in Bhutan starts from mid-November till the mid-March, and at this time of the year the climate is dry with daytime temperature of 16-18° C and nighttime temperature falling below zero. The monsoon usually arrives in mid-June, with the rain falling mainly in the afternoons and evenings. Autumn starts from the end of September, after the last of the big rains, and it is a magnificent season for trekking-lasting till mid-November.
Druk Air flies between Paro and Kathmandu (and on to Delhi) on Mondays and Thursdays.
The land border between Bhutan and India at Phuentsholing is open.
To Kathmandu: Thai flies daily between Kathmandu and Bangkok with connections throughout the world.
From Europe there are daily flights via the Middle East on Emirates, Gulf Air and Qatar Airways as well as connections via Delhi on Lufthansa and KLM.
There are daily flights from Delhi on Indian Airways and RNAC.
RNAC has twice weekly flights to Osaka via Shanghai and to Hong Kong.
China Eastern Airways is operating between Beijing and Shanghai and Kathmandu.
In Bhutan the currency is the Ngultrum (BTN)
It is best to bring a mixture of cash and travelers checks in major currencies - USD, CAD, EUR, AUD - and ensure you have a mixture of large and small denominations.
All meals are included in Bhutan so money is only needed for personal expenses such as drinks, laundry and shopping. Shopping is difficult to predict, but most people buy more than they intended.
Most major currencies can be changed into Nepalese Rupees (NPR) at Kathmandu Airport and at Bank and Exchange Counters throughout the city. Credit card cash advances and ATM withdrawals are in NPR only.
Major currencies can be exchanged for Bhutanese Ngultrum on arrival at Paro Airport, at large hotels and at banks in Thimphu. Credit cards are accepted by large hotels and major handicraft emporiums, but incur a service charge.
ATM withdrawals and Credit card cash advances are not available. It is possible to exchange excess BTN into USD on departure on production of the original exchange receipts. You cannot exchange BTN outside Bhutan.
People of Bhutan
The population of Bhutan is predominantly rural. 66% are farmers and almost 50% live more than a day’s walk from a motorable road. Approximately 42% of Bhutan’s population is under the age of 15. Keenly aware that an increased population will provide a strain on the economy, the government is working hard (and successfully) to reduce the birth rate through family planning policies and better medical facilities ensuring a better infant mortality rate.
The people of Bhutan can be categorized into three main groups.
The Drukpa account for 65% of the population and comprise two main groups. The Sharchops live in the east of the country. They are recognized as the original inhabitants of Bhurtan, although it is unclear when or from where they migrated. They are of Indo-Mongoloid stock. The Ngalop are the descendants of Tibetan immigrants who arrived in the ninth century and settled in the west of the country. The Nalop dominate the region west of the Black Mountains.
People of Nepali descent began settling in the south of Bhutan in the late 19th century. A number of Nepalese ethnic groups are represented including Newar, Brahman, Chettri, Gurung, Rai and Limbu. There is long history of ethnic tensions between the Drukpa and Nepali populations.
About 1% of the population is made up of a collection of small ethnic groups, each with their own language. Some of these groups number less than 1000 people. The most important of these are the Bumthap from the Bumthang region, the Mandhep from Trongsa, the Khyeng from central Zhemgang and the Layap from the northwest.
Religion
Bhutan's official religion is Drukpa Kagyu, school of Tantric Mahayana Buddhism, similar to the Buddhism of Tibet. Tantric form of religion emerged as the last phase in the long evolution of Buddhism. The word 'Trantism' comes from Tantras, the name of a body of esoteric texts which appeared roughly between the third and the tenth century. These are divided into four groups: tantras of action, tantras of behaviour, tantras of yoga, and finally tantras without any superiors. If we place Bhutan's religion in the full context of Buddhism, it is necessary to go back nearly 2500 years and trace the points at which the Drukpa Kagyu lineage and its antecedents diverged from other schools of Buddhism.
Buddhism is practiced throughout the country though, in the south, most Bhutanese people of Nepali and Indian descent practice Hinduism. Minority groups practice various forms of animistic religion including Bon, which predates Himalayan Buddhism. Religion has shaped the history of the nation and continues to play an important role in the life of god fearing and spiritual people. All over Bhutan, evidence of this can be seen in many religious monuments and symbols that have been erected.
The air of spirituality is pervasive even in the urban centers where the spinning of prayer wheels, the murmur of mantras and the glow of butter lamps in the houses are still important features of every day life. Bhutan's religious sites and institutions are not museum, but the daily home of its people.
Although the interiors of some temples, monasteries and Dzongs [fortress] are forbidden to foreign travelers at present, the tourists can still get a good insight into the unique cultural heritage of the Kingdom. The closure of religious institutions is to ensure that monastic life can continue unhindered.
Culture
- The pace in Bhutan is slow so be prepared for delays.
- The best approach to travelling in Bhutan is to forget about the time and relax into the slow pace of life.
- All travellers to Bhutan must travel on a planned and guided package tour.
- Dzongkha is the official language of Bhutan but the Bhutanese are taught in English at school, so most people can speak English.
- The state religion is Buddhism and its influence can be seen on every aspect of daily life.
- Always ask before taking photos of people.
- It is compulsory for the Bhutanese citizens to wear national dress in public.
- Bhutan is very conservative and you should dress accordingly. Shoulders and knees should be covered. Please do not wear shorts.
- Smoking is illegal in public places.
- The sale of tobacco products is banned.
Festivals of Bhutan
The tsechu is a festival in honour of Padmasambhava –
“ One who was born from a lotus flower,” popularly known under the name of “ Guru Rinpoche,” the Precious Teacher. This Indian saint contributed enormously to the diffusion of Tantric Buddhism in the Himalayan regions of Tibet, Nepal, Bhutan etc. around 800 AD. He is the founder of Nyingmapa, the “old school” of Lamaism, which still has numerous followers. The biography of Guru Rinpoche is highlighted by 12 episodes on the model of the Buddha Sakyamuni life. “The Tsechu” which has become the name of a popular festival commemorates each episode around the year on the 10th day of the month. The dates and the duration of the festival vary from one district to another but they always take place on or around the 10th day of the month according to the Bhutanese calendar.
Bhutanese religious dances are called cham. Dancers wear spectacular costumes made of yellow silk or rich brocade often decorated with ornaments of carved bone. For certain dances, they wear masks, which may represent animals, fearsome deities, skulls, manifestation of Guru Rimpoche or just the simple human beings.
During Tsechus, the dances are performed by monks as well as by laymen. The Tsechu is a religious festival and attending it, it is believed one gains merits. It is also a yearly social gathering where the people come together to rejoice dressed in all their finery. Following is the dance sequence for the Thimphu Tsechu. At other tsechus the sequence may vary.
Dance of the Four Stags (Shazam Cham)
This dance shows how Guru Rinpoche subdued the god of the Wind, who created much unhappiness in the world, and rode the stag that was the god’s mount. Dancers wear horned deer masks.
Dance of the Three Kinds of Ging (Pelage Gingsum)
This long dance is a visual representation of the heavenly paradise of Guru Rinpoche. It shows how emanations of Guru Rinpoche (ging) subdue demons that create obstacles to religion.
Dance of the Heroes (Pacham)
The purpose of this dance is to lead the believers of the human world into the presence of Guru Rinpoche.
Dance of the Stag & the Hounds (Shawa Shachi) Part 1
Represents the conversion to Buddhism of the hunter Gonpo Dorji by the saint Milarepa.
Dance with the Guitar (Dranyeo Cham).
A dance in celebration of the diffusion of the Drukpa lineage in Bhutan by Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal.
Black Hat Dance (Shana Cham)
One of the most important dances in which the dancers assume the appearance of yogis who have the power to kill and recreate life. It is believed that their gestures are transformed into mudras and their feet form a mandala. The dancers first create a mandala then cut the demons into pieces. This is also a ground purification rite performed for the construction of dzongs, temples and chorten.
Dance of the 21 Black Hats with Drums (Shaa Nga Cham)
Danced in honor of the victory of Buddhism over its enemies. The Black Hats beat the great drums of Buddhism; the sound of the drum represents the religion itself.
Kyecham
A dance of swords and animal masks.
Dance of the Noblemen & the Ladies (Pholey Molay)
More a comical, and very crude, play than a dance, it depicts events in the life of King Norzang.
Dance of the Drums from Drametse (Drametse Nga Cham)
Whilst meditating a learned lama had a vision of Guru Rinpoche and his paradise. In the vision the Guru’s attendants were transformed into 100 kinds of peaceful and wrathful deities. Each held a drum and drumstick and performed a dance.
Dance of the Stag & the Hounds (Shawo Sachi) Part 2
The most serious and religious of the dances in which Milarepa appears clad in white, sits in his traditional stance, with hand held to his right ear, and sings.
Dance of the Lords of the Cremation Grounds (Durdag)
Dancers represent the protectors of Buddhism who live in the eight cremation grounds at the edges of Mount Meru.
Dance of the Terrifying Deities (Tungam)
A dramatic and deeply symbolic dance in which a sacrificial murder is performed.
Dance of the Rakshas & the Judgement of the Dead (Raksha Mangcham)
One of the most important dances of the tsechu, it is based on the Book of the Dead, and is watched carefully by many old people in preparation for their own death. It is also the longest of the performances, lasting over 2 hours.
Dance of Tamshing in Bumthang (Bumthang Ter Cham)
Depicts the vision of Pema Lingpa on the consecration of the Tamshing Goemba in Bumthang. When it is performed all the earth demons are appeased and the gods rejoice.
Dance of Ging & Tsholing (Ging dang Tsholing)
A dance initiated by Guru Rinpoche on the occasion of the consecration of Samye Monastery in Tibet. The ging and tsholing demonstrate their magical powers in order to discourage demons.
Dance of the Eight Manifestations of Guru Rimpoche (Guru Tshengay)
A dance and a play in which the eight manifestations appear and are revered by the audience.
Religious Song (Chhoeshey)
Performed to commemorate the opening of the gateway to the pilgrimage site of Tsari in eastern Tibet.
Public Holidays 2009
- 2 Jan Winter Solstice
- 18-19 Feb Losar
- 20 Feb Traditional Day of Offering
- 21 Feb Birth Anniversary of Fifth Druk Gyalpo
- 26 Apr Zhabdrung Kuchoe
- 2 May Birth Anniversary of Third Druk Gyalpo
- 31 May Lord Buddha's Parinivana
- 2 Jun Coronation Day of Fourth Druk Gyalpo
- 25 Jun Birth Anniversary of Guru Rinpoche
- 18 Jul First Sermon of Lord Buddha
- 17 Sep Thimphu Drubchen
- 21-23 Sep Thimphu Tshechu
- 21 Oct Dashain
- 1 Nov Descending Day of Lord Buddha
- 11-13 Nov Birth Anniversary of Fourth Druk Gyalpo
- 17 Dec National Day
Public Holidays 2010
- 17 Dec National Day of Bhutan
Interesting places to Visit
One of the best agricultural regions of the country, Paro is also one of the most affluent. Fields cover most of the valley floor, while hamlets and isolated farms dot the countryside. The houses of Paro valley are considered to be among the most beautiful in the country. Paro is also the site of one of Bhutan’s most impressive buildings – Paro Dzong. The famous monastery of Traktang and the ruins of Drukyul Dzong are nearby.
Thimphu lies in a wooded valley, sprawling up a hillside on the West Bank of the Thimphu Chhu [Chhu means River]. Thimphu is unlike any other world capital. Small and secluded the city is quiet and there are never the traffic jams familiar in other Asian Capitals. It is often said that Thimphu is the only world capital without traffic lights. Thimphu's main shopping street is a delight not so much for what you can buy there, but for the picturesqueness of the architecture and national costume. Beautiful weaves in wool, silk and cotton, basketwork, silver jewellery, thangkas and other traditional crafts of the Kingdom are available in various Handicraft Emporiums.
Punakha plays a primordial role in the history of Bhutan; it was the country's winter capital for 300 years. Punakha Dzong, or Punthang Dechen Phodrang, was built in 1637. The Dzong resembles a gigantic ship exactly covering a split of land at the confluence of two rivers. The history of Punakha Dzong dates back to the year 1328 when a saint named Ngagi Rinchen built a temple there which can still be seen today opposite to the great Dzong. Shabdrung Nawang Namgyel a key figure in the history of Bhutan built Punakha Dzong and his body is preserved in one of the Dzongs temples, Machen Lhakhang. The Dzong was damaged six times by fire, once by floods and once by earthquake. The coronation of Ugyen Wangchuk, the first king of Bhutan, took place at Punakha Dzong on 17th December 1907.
Wangdue Phodrang, means ‘the palace where the four directions are gathered under the power of the Shabdrung’. However the popular story has it that the Shabdrung arrived at the river and happened to see a boy building a sand castle. He asked for the boy's name, which was Wangdue, and thereupon decided to name the Dzong Wangdue Phodrang or 'Wangdue's Palace.' Wangdue Phodrang Dzong is perched on a spur at the confluence of two rivers. Its position is remarkable as it completely covers the spur and commands an impressive view over both the north-south and east-west roads. The main road climbs the length of the spur and on the left, across the river, comes the first glimpse of the picturesque village of Rinchengang whose inhabitants are celebrated stonemasons.
This small modern town in the south is the gateway of Bhutan for overland travellers. Like all other border towns, it is also a prelude. Phuntsholing is also a fascinating mixture of Bhutanese and Indian, a lively center for the mingling people, languages, customs and goods. On top of a low hill at nearby Kharbandi, a small Gompa situated in a garden of tropical plants and flowers overlooks the town and surrounding plains.
The Amo Chu, commonly known as the Torsa river flows alongside this town and it is favorite spot for fisherman and the picnickers. From Phuntsholing, the road winds north over the southern foothills, through lush forested valleys and around the rugged north-south ridges of the inner Himalayas to the central valleys of Thimphu and Paro. It is a scenic journey; forests festooned with orchids cover the mountains on the other side and exciting hairpin curves greet travellers with colourful sculptures of Tashi Tagye (the eight auspicious signs of Buddhism).
Trongsa means 'the new village' and the founding of Trongsa first dates from the 16th century, which is indeed relatively recent for Bhutan. It was the Drukpa lama, Ngagi Wangchuk (1517-54), the great grandfather of Shabdrung Nawang Namgyel, who founded the first temple at Trongsa in 1543. The landscape around Trongsa is spectacular, and for miles on the end the Dzong seems to tease you so that you wonder if you will ever arrive. The view extends for many kilometers and in the former times, nothing could escape the vigilance of its watchmen.
The Bumthang region encompasses four major valleys: Choskhor, Tang, Ura and Chhume. The Dzongs and the most important temples are in the large Choskhor valley, commonly referred to as Bumthang valley. There are two versions of the origin of the name Bumthang. The valley is supposed to be shaped like a Bumpa, a vessel that contains holy water, and Thang meaning flat place. The religious connotation of the name aptly applies to the sacred character of the region. It would be difficult to find so many important temples and monasteries in such a small area anywhere else in Bhutan.
The Mongar district is the northern portion of the ancient region of Kheng. Hardly more than a stopping place surrounded by fields of maize, it was also the first town built on a mountain side instead of in a valley, a characteristic of eastern Bhutan where the valleys are usually little more than riverbeds and mountain slopes which rise abruptly from the rivers, flatten out as they approach their summits. Shongar Dzong, Mongar's original Dzong, is in ruins and the new dzong in Mongar town is not as architecturally spectacular as others in the region. Dramtse Goemba, in the eastern part of the district, is an important Nyingmapa Monastery.
Lhuentse is an isolated district although there are many sizeable villages in the hills throughout the region. It is very rural and there are fewer than five vehicles, including an ambulance, and not a single petrol station, in the whole district.
Formerly known as Kurtoe, the region is the ancestral home of Bhutan's Royal Family. Though geographically in the east, it was culturally identified with central Bhutan, and the route over the Rodung-la was a major trade route until the road to Mongar was completed. To see and appreciate Lhuentse properly, with its many small villages and ancient temples, you should really explore on foot.
Trashigang is one of the most densely populated districts in Bhutan. After Thimphu, Trashigang is the biggest urban center in mountainous Bhutan. It is the heart of eastern Bhutan and was once the center of important trade with Tibet. There are several goembas and villages that make a visit worthwhile, but it is a remote region and requires a lot of driving to reach.
Travel information
- Hotels and guesthouses are used on Bhutan trips.
- The accommodation we use is generally of a good standard however it can be simple and electricity and water may be sporadic.
Plane
- We fly from Kathmandu to Paro to enter Nepal .
Minibus
- A minibus is used for travelling between towns.
- Although the roads are generally fairly good, bus travel is slow with average speed limits of less than 40kph (25mph).
- We do not generally use public transport as services are very limited.
- Roads can be windy - if you get motion sickness bring medication.
Rickshaw
- Auto rickshaws are used for sightseeing in some of the towns.
Meals
- Most meals are included on our trips in Bhutan.
- Most meals are buffet-style and consist of European food.
- Bhutanese food often contains a lot of chillies.
- Tipping is generally not necessary.
Must try
- Eue chum (nutty pink rice).
- Yak cheese.
- Orchids.
- Asparagus.
- Tea. Souza is the national drink of Bhutan.
Vegetarians
- Vegetarian food is the norm.
- Meat is now available in some areas.
Water
- Water in Bhutan is not safe to drink.
- Water purification tablets or bottles with inbuilt filters are recommended.
Email
- Internet access is limited.
- The best option is in Thimpu where there are some internet cafes.
Telephone
- There are few telephones in Bhutan.
- International calls can be made via landline through India.
- Mobile phone coverage does exist but is limited and is only available in main cities.
Post
- Receiving post is not convenient and not advisable.
- Mail out of Bhutan is unreliable as items are often stolen due to the high value of Bhutanese stamps.
- Shopping is done mainly in markets which are generally held on weekends.
- Look for handmade knives, Buddhist carvings, traditional masks, jewellery (made to order), walnut-wood, dyed raw silk and woven wool.
- Thangkas are Buddhist paintings and make great souvenirs.
- Check with your local customs officials to ensure that you are able to import some items back into your home country. Australia and New Zealand for example have strict quarantine laws.
| © Royal Mountain Travel - Nepal |
|
